The gulf between "Old Europe" and America is reflected not just in politics but in fashion. Streamlining was the message in the final day of Milan's summer menswear season, but Calvin Klein's regular-guy collection that was simple to a fault contrasted with complexity in fabric and style from European designers.The stand-out collections for 2010 have been those that reconcile the two sides. And Bottega Veneta takes the prize. The collection of leather goods and ergonomic clothes by Tomas Maier was masterly in detail but simple in appearance. The
Christian Louboutin summed it up: footwear in which terry linings and microfiber or coconut-mat insoles were designed for barefoot comfort, while a hidden rope trim reflected the ocean-liner theme. "It was inspired not by boating, but by the way boats are elegant objects yet about functionality," said Maier. Tes-taments to 21st century living were a supple ostrich-skin shoe and briefcase, and a leather suit shoe and practical money belt (inspired by a toolbelt, it can carry a purse, mobile phone and water bottle). And the neutral palette, lighted with a volcanic, fiery orange, gave just the right fashionable touch to this fine collection.Calvin Klein Co. is at a crossroads with its new owners, Phillips-Van Heusen, looking to expand. A sober suited Klein, now creative director, was joined in Milan by Bruce Klatsky, chairman and chief executive officer of P-VH, and by the menswear designer Italo Zuchelli, who took the bow alone after the low-key show. Leather pants and sleeveless vests were stylish and so were the formal/informal mixes, such as tailored pin-striped pants with a jean jacket. Fashion elements included layering: a T-shirt and lightweight cotton jacket under a blazer, and a halfhearted stab at decoration as stitching on an artistically crumpled shirt.It was left to Donna Karan, the third American in Milan, to bring energy to the DKNY jeans collection with a dy-namic show staged in an abandoned train station,
louboutin, where the rails were lit up like glowworm trails and the band The Rapture belted out rock music.相关的主题文章:
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